FORD FOCUS - NO START - IMMOBILIZER PROBLEM?
Jan 15, · Ford Focus Club ; Mk2 Focus Immobiliser Problem Mk2 Focus Immobiliser Problem. By Vehicle: Ford Focus Duratorq-Turbo Diesel Common Rail Injection L ( MY), VIN: WF0***** The only way I can see to silence the alarm while enabling the ECU & IC to be powered up to use Forscan to test & reset PATS, is to remove F3 in. Ford focus c max 54 plate re programed fob turned imoblizer on help? Re programed key fob worked for a while then the immobiliser came on and a can not start engine please help th.
This is a really easy one. It depends on what type of Ford you have. The transponder chips are excellent quality. Read more below. The immobiliser works by preventing the starter motor, among other things, from working. There is an immobiliser light on what type of cat do i have Fords.
There are three things the Ford immobiliser light will do. Normal operation. With no keys in the ignition, or the car locked up, the red light will flash once every second. This is normal and means the immobiliser is set. When you turn the ignition on, the red light should come on for a second then go out. Immobiliser light flashing. This time, when you turn the ignition on, the light flashes very quickly, about four times faster than before. If this happens then the car does not recognise the key.
Sometimes, if a Ford Focus or Mondeo has been stood for a long time and the battery has gone flat, the car forgets the keys. Immobiliser light solid red. The car will not crank and this will look like a key problem. How to reset immobiliser on ford focus though Ford keys are excellent, there are a couple of exceptions to look for. About ten years ago, the clever people at the key factories managed to work out how to clone the key, just like Dolly the sheep, remember her?
Cloned keys are what you buy at key cutting shops and are cheaper than a properly programmed car key. There are more Ford cars in the UK than any other make, and so more Ford cloned keys how to export pictures from windows live photo gallery any other.
We started to see problems with Ford car keys caused by cloned keys and they are still a major issue, in our opinion. Compare this with any French key on Citroen and Peugeot cars and we see them every week! These have a new type of chip, that is on all french vehicles and the scourge of the motor trade. When this type of key is dropped and damaged, the chip does fail and the van will not start.
Look for a flashing immobiliser light and no crank. Yes, most likely you need a new key. The newer Ford cars do how to reset immobiliser on ford focus have an immobiliser light. They have a display that will tell you what the problem is.
If you need a new Key battery, check out our Resources page which will take you to our Amazon Store. The increase in proximity smart keys is causing a big problem for owners. When this happens, more often than not, you need a new car key. However, before you spend a lot of money on one, make sure you put a new car key battery inside. What a stupid idea. Another common reason for this message is poor car key battery choice. All these keys need a good quality CRand anything without a good brand should be thrown in the bin!
Well recycled in a car key battery facility! This is a big problem and is on the increase. If you have a keyless Ford car, you should click here. How good are Ford Keys compared to other keys? Click Here to find out. We hope this has helped. Any questions please leave in the comments below. Links on this website may lead you to a product or service.
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The only consideration is in the form of affiliate commissions. What can be the issue. What i need to do? Hi I have a Ford Focus 1. Hi David. Have you had your key checked? Take it to a local Timpsons or a car key shop and ask them to check whether the chip reads ok. Hi, I have a fiesta tdi. When I insert the key the immobiliser light flashes and gives code 1 3. If the key is left in the ignition for around 20 seconds before starting it will fire up ok.
This happens on all three keys. Any ideas what could be causing this? Please can you help? What are my options? Have you changed anything on the key other than the battery?
Does the car try and crank? Hi Steve. Wondered if you could help me, i have a kit car with a focus 1. Thanks John. Hi, I have a ford fiesta 1. Then that flash light immobolizer flashes too much. I did send it to a mechanic and they fixed the barrel. Hi I have replaced the ignition barrel on a Mondeo Ignition lights come on but no crank. Hi Richard, sorry for the delay in replying, I have been away. When the barrel is replaced, the key that comes with it needs coding to the car.
Sometimes you can get away with what you are trying to do holding it close but if there is an unprogrammed chip in the new ignition, the car may just be confused. Did you get this sorted out? Hi, on a caravan holiday 3 hours from home with kids. Have a Ford S Max 55 plate.
Once inside, car wont start at all. I have tried to place the key inside the detector hub by the wheel but no lights or any response at all from the car. Any advice please?? Please help. Hi Jennifer. Do the hazard lights work? It sounds like you have a flat battery.
Was on holiday on the south coast and on last day keys opened car but said engine immobilised. There is no sound when trying to start the car. What does alaskan halibut taste like worked at first but not after the rac had tried various attempts to solve the problem.
Any ideas? Could the spare key at home work or when it is towed back should I get it towed straight to a garage? Many thanks. Do you know how we can get a couple of spare keys cut? Ok so there is a chip in this key, and so when you get a new key, it will need to be one with a chip also.
There are alot of Ford Ka cars that do not have a remote control. The only way to check this is by asking the Ford Dealer. Getting a spare key can be a bit tricky, depending on where you are. There are two ways of getting a key. This is really common in key cutting shops. The other way is to contact a local Auto Locksmith.
Dec 01, · I went to start the car tonight and the immobiliser seems to have been tripped. Now I can't start the car, and you can't even feel the click from the ignition off to on position. Is there anyway to reset the car? I can still lock and unlock with the remote, but the ignition seems to have gone dead, and the immobiliser symbol is flashing. disconnect the battery, (the alarm will certainly stop then), With the battery disconnected and all the doors closed and locked, put the key in the ingtion and turn it to run (nothing will happen as the battery is disconnected) This next part is important. Nov 29, · This fault would be apparent by the PATS LED flashing. If the immobilizer is working, when you first turn the ignition on, the PATS LED will light continuously for a couple seconds before going out. It'll then stay off until after the immobilizer is reactivated .
I'v recently bought a mk2 focus 1. Someone crashed into him around a year ago but he was told the car was fit to drive, so he continued to drive it for around a month. But after a month the turbo went and he decided not to fix it until he found out what was going on with the insurance. Anyway he got paid out the money for the repair and i bought the car from him.
So i fitted a new turbo to the car and fitted a new battery. I went to turn it over after fitting the turbo and it wouldn't turn over.
I check for power to the starter when cranking and it wasn't getting any power. I then checked for power to the start relay and that is getting 12v when cranking the relay is fine I needed another key anyway as i only had the one, so got a auto locksmith out and asked him to code the keys but still won't turn over.
I'v also checked all fuses which were fine. I'v noticed when you turn the ignition on the immobiliser light stays soilid for a minute, then flashes 2 times, stops and then flashes three times. Which i'v read means its code 23, anyone know what that means?
Any suggestions of what else to check before i get it towed to ford? Code 23 is an immobiliser code mismatch, basically the immobiliser isn't accepting the keys and not deactivating. I'd suggest that the keys need recoding or the transponder ring around the ignition barrel is defective. Ok, cheers for that. Is there any way to test the transponder ring? Also i forgot to mention, when i first fit the turbo. I cranked it with the old battery and charger on. I turned over but very slowly. I left it on charge and when i went back to it the alarm went off.
The lights flashing stopped when i fit the new battery but obviously still wouldn't turn over. Not sure if all thats matters but i thought i'd mention it. If the turbo has an electronic actuator, it may have to be coded to the ECU or you may have to use the original actuator that matches the ECU.
Some of these modern Fords have a smart charch electrical system and require a silver-calcium battery. Agree with stoney cide 23 is pats key mismatch either the key code has been lost from memory or ignition rings gone the other issue sounds as if its indeed the wrong battery also you shouldnt leave battery and charger connected when cranking the ecu will detect a low battery and put a lot of volts up to 18v the feedback can blow ecu diodes all fords use smartcharge in fact most cars do just not like fords.
I'v spoken to the guy that coded the keys, he says hes done plenty of ford keys and is confident that the keys are coded correctly. So does any one know any way of testing the ignition ring? I think on your other thread lammers, Tdci-Peter has suggested that there could be an instrument cluster failure caused by a dry solder joint.
He's a good guy who knows his stuff and seeing as both of you appear to have no problem with dismantling your cars, I would be checking that possibility out as it will cost you little but time as opposed to replacing other parts through guesswork. The basic function is in the ECU aka PCM , as this has total control of the engine: injectors, fuel pump and starter motor. So it is no use hot-wiring the starter. The PATS sensor is a little coil unit wrapped around the ignition key barrel. It is quite easy to get at once the plastic steering column covers are released.
Connector or other failures here are possible but rare. This sensor is wired direct to the nearby Instrument Cluster IC. Thus both electronic modules would have to be swapped out to use another key to steal the car. There are PATS codes.
This can tell you if it is a key problem, a sensor problem, or a CAN bus problem. Code 16 means CAN bus. Google PATS codes, or see:. I'm having exactly the same problem with my, , 1.
The idea that an anti theft device could cause this much mayhem, and danger it cut out on a bend in the road leaves me wondering about the mindset of the designers. If a thief came up to my car now, I'd help em hitch it up and happily wave it bye bye The most common fault on the Focus is the solder connections at the back of the Instrument Cluster IC. It will not be the immobiliser directly that caused it to cut out on a bend, it is designed to never come on while running.
But a CAN bus failure is so significant that multiple failures can happen, software is stressed beyond its limits, and engine power loss or even steering glitches are possible. That is a huge weakness of the whole CAN bus system, which as a digital electronics designer, I think was a horrible and weak system to choose.
But the entire automotive industry thought otherwise! There are also three connectors in the HS-CAN bus, one in the engine bay fuse box, and two low down in front of the passenger door, under the side trim panels. These can give problems. Thanks for that Peter, it gives me something positive sorry about that to investigate.
I did used to work in an electronics design department during the 'Stone age'. I even taught 'Microprocessors' at Telford college just after the ice age But modern car circuitry combined with Sensors leave my wallowing I'll now look up removing the instrument cluster, which i believe can be a bit tricky.
Oops, I've just read and printed off the excellent treatise that you pointed me at re removing the instrument cluster without resorting to the sacred lump hammer Very much on the off chance that this, Mk2 Focus, under bonnet fuse box diagram that I found and modified might be of some use- here it is.
Doc2 - Copy. Mind, it does say that "modules should not be replaced based only on a 'U' code- which suggests that I should start with the PCM P 61 DTC 8th fault down - meaning I'll have to go back out and dig a little deeper Does that sound sensible? To check if it's the cluster you can wd40 the multiple connector and see if it works. Board side not the actual grey connector. If no fix clean the wd40 off as it not the issue. Also check you installed the battery correctly and if the ecu side on the battery box it that is connected correctly..
WARN [ OK [ That in was in and due to the classic bad connector solder on the IC problem in my pdf. It looks remarkably similar to your list. I see what you are saying Peter and my next port of call was to be the Instrument Cluster early next week , however the Focus is one step ahead of me and has now locked me out totally.
Foolishly I opened the remote fob and found the 'unlock' button even more remote than the fob Which might account for the difficulty we have had opening the car over the years.
Using dexterity, skill and a bit of solder, I carefully resoldered it back into position and lo The remote no longer works at all. When I insert the key and turn it counter clockwise the car emits lots of clunky whirry sounds When I insert the key and turn it clockwise more clunky sounds are emitted and I can't get in.
Obviously my car has gone into Ford's little known 'don't ever think of trying to get into me again' mode. I tried gaining access with my non-remote key, which has worked as a basic form of access and drive- in the past, to no avail. I have been totally rejected by the heap of automotive junk that is now taking up space on my drive. At age 75, I'm not sure I have enough years on this mortal coil, or will power, to see this issue through.
I am sad to hear that, I know the feeling though, when one thing goes wrong, another just comes along to knock you flat! There is very little in common between the central locking and the immobiliser. Different parts of the key, different modules in the car, different functions.
I thought the driver's door lock had a purely mechanical over-ride, so you can unlock the door even with a flat battery. If so, then there will be a mechanical fault in the driver's door. It might be worth getting an assistant to try to open the passenger door just as you unlock the driver's door, and get the clunks.
I guess all the locks are unlocking, then re-locking when it detects the driver's door remains locked. Then see if the driver's door can be unlocked from the inside. I've succesfully unlocked mine before using the key with no battery attached to the car.
You are both correct I returned from a couple of days away, having disconnected the battery prior to leaving. I reconnected the battery and the alarm went off So I disconnected it again. I'm hoping to fix the key problem with a soldering iron, then remove the instrument panel IC to see what that might reveal.
Haynes suggests that the instrument must be kept upright to avoid leakage Is that correct do you know? Getting it out needs care and patience. It is easy to crack the clear cover, and this is not available as a spare. Slowly ease the top out with old credit cards or flat bladed knives to locate and help free the lugs that dig in to the fascia.
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